FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

It’s an incredibly eye-opening experience to start reading ingredient labels on personal care products. A few years ago, I assembled details of the ingredients in several commercially available soaps- for my interest and that of our customers.

Now I’m back hearing Shakespeare’s Macbeth again:
“Eye of newt, and toe of frog,
Wool of bat, and tongue of dog,
Adder’s fork, and blind-worm’s sting,
Lizard’s leg, and howlet’s wing,…”

It’s not surprising that those words should spring to mind when examining the ingredients of a popular “Beauty Cream Bar” with its 26 ingredients- repeat, 26! Its marketing dares to claim: “Soap is Harsh…Dove is Different”. I dare say it is different…at least to our organic soaps.

Let’s take a closer look at Dove's ingredients list, and see what all those 26 goodies are:
- Sodium Lauroyl Isenthionate- synthetic foaming agent, emulsifier & surfactant- skin irritant
- Stearic Acid- fatty acid from animal fats in this instance- common allergen
- Sodium Palmitate- saponified palm oil
- Aqua- water
- Lauric Acid- fatty acid in coconut oil
- Sodium Isethionate- synthetic amphoteric detergent
- Sodium Stearate- synthetic surfactant
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine- synthetic surfactant, allergen
- Sodium Palm Kernelate- saponified palm kernel oil
- Parfum- fragrance, endocrine disruptors
- Glycerin- synthetic glycerin from petrochemicals
- Sodium Chloride- salt
- Zinc Oxide- synthetic binder- insoluble in water, soluble only in acids- skin irritant
- Citric Acid- organic acid & preservative- skin irritant
- Tetrasodium EDTA- synthetic chelating agent- skin irritant, allergen & suspected carcinogen
- Tetrasodium Eldronate- water softener & chelating agent- aggravates eczema/skin problems
- Alumina- aluminium- amphoteric oxide & abrasive
- Alpha-isomethyl Ionone- binder- a restricted irritant & allergen- banned from use in perfume industry
- Benzyl Alcohol- organic peroxide compound
- Butylphenyl Methylpropional- sensitizing fragrance- restricted use in perfume industry
- Citronellol- acyalic monoterpenoid- sensitizing organic fragrance & allergen
- Coumarin- sensitizing chemical fragrance
- Hexyl Cinnamal- synthetic fragrance- Class B allergen
- Limonene- cyclicterpene synthetic fragrance
- Linalool- terpene alcohol synthetic fragrance
- CI 77891- titanium dioxide- white pigment

By law, ingredients must be listed in descending order of content. After looking at that list, I’m now wondering where the “1/4 moisturising cream” supposedly contained in each bar is. The only ingredients that could contribute to being moisturising are the Stearic (from animal fat waste = tallow, in this instance) and Lauric acids (from palm oil), and petroleum-based glycerin. All three are cheap and harsh ingredients…hidden from obvious disclosure of their source. If you were aware that you were buying a soap made from largely animal fat waste, and palm oil, would you consciously buy it on principle? Unilever- who manufacture Dove- buys 3% of the world’s palm oil…alarmingly contributing to the destruction of our environment. Are you feeling a little bit different about that “Beauty Cream Bar” yet…made from waste products and petrochemical derived synthetic detergents?

In comparison, our organic soaps generally contain four natural ingredients…we’ll never manage to compare to that grand list above, thankfully.

Our soaps are made with quality organic plant oils. They are expensive- without question. Our ‘vari’ soap- which also forms the base of our ‘cofi’, ‘hemi’, ‘nimi’ and ‘salti’ soaps- contains organic extra virgin coconut and olive oils, and organic castor oil. It therefore contains the following beneficial and moisturising fatty acids from those oils: Lauric, Linoleic, Myristic, Oleic, Palmitic, Ricinoleic and Stearic Acids.

‘vari’ also contains around 12% natural glycerine produced from those organic plant oils, as a by-product of the cold-process method of soap-making that we use. We also ‘superfat’ our soaps- meaning that our recipes are calculated to retain a proportion of the oils in free suspension within the soap to further increase the moisturising qualities.

Hmm…what was that marketing line again- “Soap is Harsh…Dove is Different”? Nothing more than a bit of deceptive, creative copywriting- the ingredients tell the true story.

Continuing Shakespeare’s Macbeth:
“…For a charm of powerful trouble, Like a hell-broth boil and bubble.”
Who knew all those years ago, that one day Shakespeare would finally find relevance in my life!

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE PURE, ORGANIC SOAP

How is soap made? Often when I’m stirring a batch of soap, I hear the words silently running through my head…”Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and caldron bubble.” (from Macbeth, William Shakespeare)…some words stick with you for life!

So how do you turn an oil into a solid to create soap? There’s a bit of simple chemistry that applies to the process. Basically, a fatty acid/oil is combined with an alkali/caustic soda (NaOH) to form a solid/fatty acid salt…soap. The reaction that occurs: fat/oil + 3NaOH/sodium hydroxide = glycerine +3soap.

A fatty acid has a unique combination of triglycerides…compounds made of 3 fatty acids attached to a single molecule of glycerol. Glycerol is the basis of all fats, made up of a three carbon chain…connecting the fatty acids together. When mixed with the alkali solution with 1 hydroxide ion (the sodium ion does not take part in the reaction at all), the triglycerides within the fatty acid/oil release the single glycerol molecule…which turns into glycerine. The fatty acids combine with the hydroxide ions to form a solid soap salt.

This process is called ‘saponification’- the oil used as an ingredient becomes termed a ‘saponified oil’ for identification, or is identified as a salt- like sodium cocoate (saponified coconut oil). There is no other way to turn an oil into a solid salt. The caustic soda solution- sometimes termed ‘lye’- is part of the chemical process but, through the molecular reconfigurations in the equation, becomes inert and transforms the glycerol into the beneficial element of glycerine.

Glycerine is therefore created as a by-product of the soap-making process…making the use of caustic soda in the process a bit of a no-brainer for any concern, as it does not exist in the resultant soap. Glycerine is an incredibly moisturising substance- attracting moisture from its surroundings…a 'humectant'. It’s the most valued ingredient used in the skin care industry, and it is usually filtered off in commercial soap manufacturing to be used in moisturisers.

At ilo ORGANICS, we hand-make our soaps using the cold process method of soap manufacture. This method yields a high percentage of natural glycerine, and the glycerine quality in our soaps cannot be surpassed, as it is derived from processing pure organic plant oils. All handmade, cold process soaps can in fact be termed ‘glycerine soaps’ because of the high glycerine content produced as a by-product. 

After the mixture has thickened through careful blending, it is poured into moulds and left for a day to continue the saponification process and firm up. The formed soaps are then left to ‘cure’- evaporate the water content from the lye used, and further harden- for a period of weeks. This period is determined by the soap cake size and the oils used- varying from 4-8 weeks in our soap types produced.

At ilo ORGANICS, we ‘superfat’ our soaps. This means that in our soap recipe calculations, we make an allowance so that not all of the oils are converted in the processing. This leaves a percentage of the oils in their natural form to further moisturise the skin. These suspended oils can sometimes rise to the surface- causing small pockets of darker discolouration. The clear sticky coating that also rises to the surface of the soap is the glycerine content.

So if you were thinking that soap was the harsh product that commercial manufacturers now marketing body-washes in their economic drive would have you believe, think again. Handmade, cold process soaps are true soaps made with time-honoured traditions and natural ingredients- unsurpassed for the gentle, moisturising cleansing care that they offer the skin.

At ilo ORGANICS, our soaps also offer the added benefit of being made with pure organic plant oils, and are completely chemical, colouring and fragrance free. Indulge your body and nurture your skin naturally…you’ll wonder how you ever lived without our soaps- moisturising skin care in one simple step! Back to the stirring...

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

Blokes love our organic soap! It never ceases to astound us that men are the biggest users of our organic soap range. It certainly wasn’t something that we were expecting…not by any stretch of our imagination- but there it is!

Most men wander up to us at the markets- a little embarrassed to begin with- but the conversation generally runs like this:

Us: Hi! Have you used our soaps before? Would you like us to explain the soaps to you?

Bloke: Yeah, that’d be good. My skin gets really dry. My wife buys those damn body-washes. I hate them! I hate pumping the bottle- I hate the flowery smell…I just hate them! I just want to grab a cake of soap & have a shower…but she insists body-washes are better…yet my skin never used to be dry.

We explain our organic soap range- that we don’t use chemicals or fragrances, and that our organic soaps are naturally moisturising.

Most men usually choose our ‘coci’ soap on the basis that they can use it for shaving and as a shampoo as well. They walk away with their purchase in our brown paper bag- hidden under their armpit. The whole scene is vaguely reminiscent of the embarrassed purchase of condoms from a female shop assistant. Ah- but then they come back saying that they loved our soap- their skin has been great- and the next purchase is completed with confidence.

Then we have females who are shopping for soap for their husband or son…either with dry skin or eczema. The conversation generally goes like this:

Woman: I’m looking for soap for my husband. He drives me nuts…he’s hung up on the past and wants to use soap. He reckons that the body-wash makes his skin dry and irritated.

Us: I take it that you don’t have dry skin yourself then?

Woman: No…well I do…everyone does, particularly in winter- but I use moisturiser after I’ve showered. He can’t be bothered! Anyway, I think he just doesn’t like the smell of the body-wash…and he’s stubborn- says he hates fiddling with it all.

So we explain our organic soap range, and that body-washes can be harsh on the skin because of the petrochemicals, and preservatives used to provide a shelf life, and that we don’t add fragrance to our soaps because they are common irritants to the skin. We explain that our soaps are highly moisturising because of the naturally achieved glycerine content…the most moisturising ingredient used in the cosmetic industry- and because of the organic plant oils that we select…which gently nurture the skin without stripping it.

The woman begrudgingly usually buys a ‘coci’ soap then utters a complaint about the extra cleaning she’ll have to do…because soaps are so messy. We comment that in fact there won’t be any difference…that it’s the chemicals used in commercial soaps that cause the residual scum.

We usually wonder afterwards…has the woman in fact ‘heard’ anything that we’ve said? We think blokes are pretty damn switched on to soap with good reason.

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

...a word used to represent the longest word in English- a nonsense word used by children. Don't you ever wonder who comes up with the names of various chemicals? We can scrutinise product labels, but remain mystified as to what the ingredients might actually be...but conclude that they've got to be okay, or they wouldn't be allowed to be included in a consumable product. Some of the most circumspect chemicals are used as preservatives in personal care products.

The following is a list of preservatives used in products, that we'd personally avoid all contact with until clinical studies are conclusive: 2-bromo-2 nitrophane/Bronopol; Diazolidinyl urea; DMDM hydantoin; Formaldehyde; Imidazolidinyl urea; Parabens- Benzlparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben; Methylchloroisthiazolinone; Methylisothiazolinone; Methylisothiazoline; Phenocyethanol. Can you even pronounce them? There's a clue!

The following preservatives aren't currently 'in question' over health risks...but use your judgement: Benzalkonium chloride; BHA/Butylated hydroxyanisole; BHT/Butylated hydroxytoluene; Ethylenediamine; Ethylenediamine: Methyeneamine; Methylchloroisothiazolinane; Methyldibromoglutaronitrite; Quaternium-15; Resorcinol; Thimerosal; Triclocaban; Triclosan. Do you bother to jot the ingredients down and research what they are before buying that product?

Apologies for any spelling mistakes made, but therein lies a simple rule to adopt when reading labels- if you can't spell it...if you can't pronounce it...if the ingredient appears as a nonsense word to you...do you really want to risk putting it on your skin?

A popular commercial "beauty cream bar" soap is marketed "Soap is Harsh...**** is Different"- with its 26 mainly synthetic, petrochemical based ingredients- a truly alarming prospect! Our bodies are not meant to process petrochemicals.

ilo ORGANICS soaps contain generally 4 ingredients: a blend of selected saponified organic plant oils and natural glycerine- produced as a by-product of the soap-making process. There are no chemicals, no preservatives, no colouring agents and no fragrance compounds in our soaps...nothing hard to pronounce at all. Use our soaps with confidence!

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

ilo ORGANICS soaps are handcrafted using the cold process method of soap manufacture. This method ensures that the natural nutrient qualities of the selected organic plant oils used remain intact- as the ingredients are mixed by hand without the use of heat.

We have provided a brief description of the various methods used to make soap for your scrutiny. We believe that informed people make informed decisions.

COLD PROCESS METHOD- used by ilo ORGANICS

This method involves mixing a fatty acid (the oil) with an alkali (sodium hydroxide) to form a solid. This process is called saponification. The resultant soap is a fatty acid salt.

During the first 24 hours after combining the ingredients and pouring it into moulds, the molecules reconfigure- causing the mixture to generate natural heat, and progress through a transparent gel stage before becoming an opaque solid. At this point, the sodium hydroxide has been rendered completely inert- creating natural glycerine as a by-product in its place. It is for this reason that sodium hydroxide is not required to be listed as an ingredient, as it has a technical effect in the production process only, and is converted into glycerine as an ingredient.

A simple explanation of this molecular reaction is: fat (the oil) + 3NaOH (sodium hydroxide) = glycerine + 3soap.

It is the naturally achieved glycerine content that makes handcrafted soap smooth and soft in texture, and even more moisturising than from the selected plant oil content. Glycerine is a humectant- attracting moisture to the skin. Technically, all handcrafted cold process soaps can be termed ‘glycerine soaps’. There is no such thing as 100% glycerine soap. On checking commercial soap labels, the glycerine will be listed in the descending order of ingredients as an additive- along with a lengthy list of petrochemical based ingredients. A transparent soap is a heavily processed soap.

It is the natural glycerine content of cold process soap attracting surrounding environmental moisture that can turn the soap to glug. It is important to keep the soap well drained and aired between uses. For this reason, ilo ORGANICS provides a small plastic drainer for use with our soaps.

ilo ORGANICS cut the solidified soap by hand, and allow the soap to harden through evaporation for up to 8 weeks, before packaging it. ilo ORGANICS handcrafted soaps achieve approximately 12% natural glycerine content- to lavish the skin with its supremely moisturising quality. The glycerine is identified as the clear, sticky component of the moistened soap.

Soaps made by the cold process method achieve an opaque smooth, even and creamy texture- that is relatively soft in comparison to commercially produced soaps. Handcrafted soaps made from pure plant oils using the cold process method don’t require preservatives. However, ilo ORGANICS recommends that the soaps be used within 12 months of purchase.

By using this manufacturing method, the soap-maker is required to be registered with NICNAS- the Government Department that soap-making is regulated by in Australia. If the soap-maker is not registered, they are in breach of NICNAS and ACCC requirements for the manufacturing and sale of soap.

HOT PROCESS METHOD

This method uses the same combination of a fatty acid with an alkali- as does the cold process method, but the mixture is then heated for several hours to remove most of the moisture content. The resultant mixture is a thick, translucent globular gel that is then forced into the moulds rather than poured. The heating of the soap mixture allows the soap to be used immediately after solidifying- reducing the manufacturing period considerably for the soap-maker. However, the applied heat destroys the beneficial qualities of the oils by destroying the natural oil acids.

Hot Processed soaps can be identified by their opaque and slightly globular texture.

By using this manufacturing method, the soap-maker is required to be registered with NICNAS in Australia.

MELT & POUR METHOD

The melt & pour method uses either soap pellets or soap blocks that are purchased from a commercial soap manufacturer. They are therefore generally based on a highly processed, petrochemical formed soap. The purchased soap form is then heated and melted, and various ingredients (natural herbs, goat milk powders, colour, fragrance, essential oils etc) are added to the soap mixture.

Because of this ‘handling’ of the mixture, the resultant soap is technically allowed to be termed ‘handmade’, but it is no better in quality than the basic commercially produced soap purchased.

Melt & Pour soaps can be readily identified by their usually decorative appearance- either being highly coloured, fragranced, and sometimes transparent or having gimmicky forms. This method also allows the soap-maker to not be registered with NICNAS- the Government Department that soap-making is regulated by in Australia- as they are technically not the manufacturer of the soap product.

COMMERCIALLY PRODUCED SOAP

Most commercially produced soaps are technically synthetic detergent bars. They are generally manufactured from synthesized petrochemicals- with numerous buffers and preservatives added to achieve various qualities of hardness, lather etc. More chemicals are added to hasten the processing time. Look at the ingredients listed on the packaging- if you can’t pronounce it, we doubt that it is desirable to be used on the skin. Ingredients are required to be listed in descending order by percentage of content. Natural additives usually appear low on the listing- indicating minimal content, and will therefore have very little impact in the formulation.

We have done a comprehensive analysis of the ingredients of most commercial soaps- clearly identifying what all the ingredients represent or their purpose. This analysis is available to peruse to anyone visiting us at Village Life Markets- prepare to be alarmed. The petrochemical cocktail contained in one popularly promoted brand as being a moisturising “beauty cream bar” is incredibly alarming- containing 26 ingredients. This soap currently achieves 22% of commercial soap sales around the world.

Again, ilo ORGANICS believes that informed people make informed decisions. Ilo ORGANICS handcrafted soaps contain 3 or more natural organic ingredients only, to gently cleanse and nurtue the skin. There are no chemicals, colourings or fragrances added.

COMMERCIALLY PRODUCED BODY WASHES & LIQUID SOAP

Most commercially produced body washes are made from petrochemicals, similarly as to commercial soap. They could be more aptly termed ‘body detergents’.

Due to successful marketing campaigns, they have achieved escalating sales in recent years- now holding 80% of market sales. Many companies have now ceased production of soap. Naming rights to some historical brands have been sold to companies in India and Asia. Check the labels for country of manufacture- it probably won’t be what you had assumed historically any more.

Body washes are cheaper for manufacturers to produce, and their successful marketing has misguidedly lead the consumer to believe that body washes are a superior and healthier product. Because of their fluid nature, more preservatives are required to sustain the product. They present a frightening chemical cocktail presented in yet another plastic container. The application of heat is required to manufacture liquid soap. This destroys any of the beneficial qualities in the ingredients.

ilo ORGANICS suggests that you carefully read the ingredients list of body washes. One popular brand promotes that it is “soap free- pH balanced- fragrance free- colour free- paraben free”, yet contains 16 ingredients- most of which are petrochemicals. It also uses a suspected mutagenic neurotoxin as one of its preservatives. This chemical is 100% absorbed through the skin, and banned from use in all other cosmetic products. Its use is allowed in body washes because of minimal skin contact time- but do you really want to risk it? 

Again, if you can’t pronounce it, do you really want to use it on your skin?