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Soap...a history!

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE PURE, ORGANIC SOAP

How was soap discovered? There are many explanations offered, but at best, they are just based on conjecture. Soap has been evidenced through history from as far back as 2800BC. As to how it came about was probably through an act of chance.

Man existed primarily as a hunter and gatherer of food for survival. If an animal was hunted and killed, every bit of the carcass was used as a resource- meat, organs, fat, blood, bone and skin. Nothing was wasted…economics and survival. Along the way, man discovered fire- which quickly augmented the practical use of the carcass. Bones and fat were boiled for nourishing broths.

There in lies an obvious possibility in my opinion and logic as to how soap was discovered…a boiled pot of broth was knocked over into the fire. On the top of the fated broth, the risen congealed layer of fat then fell into the fire ashes. Later, someone noticed an unusual fatty product that resulted- a transformed fat that created a slippery feel when moistened, and broke the surface tension and workability of the animal fat for lubricating and protecting animal hides…the dried blood becoming easier to remove etc.

Why do I believe this simple accident to be a viable notion? The simple chemistry that goes into making soap applies. Soap is made by combining a fat with a strong alkali…one of which is KOH/potassium hydroxide. What was one of the earliest sources of KOH? Potash- formed from boiling hardwood fire ashes. BOOM- that cooking accident caused soap to form in the fire ashes. I find this a far more viable explanation than those offered as to the history…but then I adopt a somewhat cynical attitude to historical overviews.

I remember listening to a glorified, artistic analysis of various exampled sculptures done by Michelangelo in Milan at the Castello Sforzesco- where Michelangelo’s last unfinished sculpture is displayed. Another sculpture had 3 rough figures emerging from a large block of marble, and the analysis proffered complex analogies of the artistic merit and creative expression attempted. Really? Were there any other examples of this type of expressive work done by Michelangelo, in such an unfinished and unrefined state…no. My simple explanation would have been that Michelangelo had to acquire his skills along the way. The exampled sculpture was probably a piece that he very simply stuffed up, and then used the block for further practice. Have you ever attempted sculpture? I think if you have, you’ll find my explanation very plausible. Three dimensional rendering is complex in translation of form.

It was also found that boiled animal fat- separated from any residual meat and gristle- lasted longer in storage. The intentional production of purified animal fat began…tallow. Tallow and soap production became industries- although soap over the centuries was used purely for functional cleaning. In countries where animal fats were not readily available, soaps were made using various locally sourced plant oils…primarily olive oil. In fact my father-in-law at one point worked in a factory producing olive oil soap from the olive pressing wastes, in his village in Italy. Olive oil soap has historically been known as the mildest soap produced.

It’s an interesting fact that Australia sustained a viable export trade of tallow with England in the mid 19th Century. A failing beef industry in a difficult economic period in our history was sustained through these exports…the meat became the waste product given to workers and used as pig feed.

The use of tallow in soap has continued through to modern times. Tallow was a cheap and readily accessible fat that was essentially accessed as a waste product. Most people made their own soap- collecting the animal fats from their cooking for this purpose.

It took the re-assignment of tallow as a resource during WW1, for a chemical alternative to be created out of necessity. BOOM- along came detergent…a synthetic emulsifier created from petroleum.

However, the use of detergents in commercial soap making did not come in to use until the further restrictions of resources during WW2. Commercially produced soaps were made from these detergent bases thereafter…a cheap accessible ingredient. ‘Soap’ produced from petroleum chemicals is technically not soap, but a ‘detergent bar’.

Soap, as historically known and produced, has become a product reserved to traditional soap makers- employing the traditional soap making method of cold-processing, and the use of tallow and plant oils for the superior qualities that they bring to a soap, over the harsh qualities of petroleum based detergents.

ilo ORGANICS select various organic plant oils for use in our soaps, because of their superior beneficial qualities offered to the skin. Our soaps are 100% Vegan safe- safe for use on both ethical and medical grounds. My body has never tolerated nor digested animal fats. The thought of tallow used in a soap sends shudders through my body- 100% pure animal fat…not for me! The skin, as the body’s largest organ, does absorb roughly 60% of compounds applied to it, as we’ve explained before- refer blog dated 09.07.14, “Where’s my suit of armour?”

Similarly, I do not agree with applying an animal fat or protein- like goat’s milk- to an unresolved or qualified skin rash or irritation. Logic says to me that that fat or protein will draw to it as a food source the same problem bacteria…my theories only- perhaps my doctor would argue the point otherwise.

I also suffer from Lupus. There is no way that I’d contemplate exposing the resultant oozing skin lesions to a bacteria attracting animal fat or protein, and compound the risk of infection. Logic tells me it’d be like adding wood to the fire…a bit like the old remedy of applying butter to a burn- we now know that the burn was amplified by this process.

My skin with a Lupus outbreak responds best to the gentle, soothing care offered by our organic soaps, and the healing qualities offered by soaking in a bath containing our pure mineral salts.

Our knowledge of the body and its interaction with the environment has expanded significantly- so too, our scientific knowledge. We have access to better soap making ingredients- we can analyse the structure of those ingredients to appraise the benefits that they offer the skin and the body. At ilo ORGANICS, we choose to use organic plant oils for our soap making- with the guarantee that they are of the finest chemical-free oils that we can source.

So there you have it…my somewhat twisted theories on the history of soap!

Fee, fi, fo, fum...

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

Why don’t we add fragrance to our soaps? As ilo ORGANICS is producing soaps to cater for sensitive skins, we consciously chose to omit fragrance compounds from our products. Most fragrance compounds, whether synthetically or naturally derived, are known skin irritants or allergens- yet they are used profusely in commercial products. It’s become our accepted expectation that our olfactory senses will be stimulated by every personal care product we buy. How did that happen? When and why did manufacturers begin to saturate our senses with an overload of fragrance?

There in lies the clue- commercial manufacturing and marketing rule our lives in order to attract sales...manipulating our senses for profit.

We started making our organic soaps out of necessity to address our daughter’s skin sensitivities. She reacted to everything- commercial and other handmade soaps, hand and body washes, shampoos and conditioners, creams, detergents, washing powders…an extensive list of products. If she uses a hand-wash in a public toilet, her hands become instantly red and painfully irritated for 3-5 days. If she stays outside of our home, she reacts with rashes to the washing powders used by others on sheets and towels. We know she is allergic to yellow colouring, and that’s used commercially in most products to stimulate visual appeal. Beyond that, we don’t know what specifically causes her reactions. So we set about making the purest soap product we could- using the best organic ingredients we could source, to ensure a chemical and irritant free product.

After researching ingredients, fragrance compounds became an obvious exclusion…even most essential oils are known skin irritants with their concentrated forms.

The essential oils that are known allergens and irritants to avoid skin contact with are: balsam, basil, benzoin, birch, black pepper, cassia, clove, cinnamon bark, citronella, costus, divaret pine, elecampane, eucalyptus, fennel, ginger, lemon, lemon balm, lemongrass, lemon verbena, oregano, peppermint, pimento berry, pine, savory, tagetes, red thyme and wintergreen.

The essential oils that are known photo-sensitizers to avoid skin contact with are: angelia, bergamot, bitter orange, cumin, lemon, lime, opoponax, rue and verbena.

That’s quite an extensive list. Are you recognising common fragrances used in your commercial products, and still wondering why you suffer skin irritations...despite changing products?

We’d hate to say how many times we were asked at the markets on Sunday alone, if we have a lemongrass soap. Dried lemongrass in the quantities that would be added to a soap would offer little fragrance. The fragrance would need to be boosted by the addition of a synthetic fragrance or essential oil…but check those lists above. Lemongrass essential oil is an established skin irritant.

Do you even contemplate the plethora of fragrances that you’re applying to your body every day through personal care products? There’s the body wash or soap, shampoo and conditioner, deodorant, moisturiser, hand-cream, toothpaste, hair product…and then perfume/aftershave. What on earth do we smell like at the end of all of that…with most fragrances never meant to be compatibly combined with the others.

We intentionally seek out fragrance free products for our use. We embrace the natural odours of the organic plant oils that we use in our soaps. They’re subtle, yet simply refreshing…as our senses have re-engaged after the removal of the fragrance overload in our lives. We do “…smell the blood of an Englishman…” more readily and happily these days…and embrace the fact!

Where's my suit of armour?

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

Were you thinking that your skin is an impermeable protective shield against the world? It's not- it's a semi-permeable membrane that acts as a natural barrier against infection entering the body. The skin is essentially water resistant, so that nutrients aren't washed out of the body- but the skin does absorb many substances that are applied to it. The applied substances can have just as much impact on your health as the foods you eat.

The skin is the largest organ of the body- covering about 2 sq m on average, with a variable thickness of 1-3mm depending on location. It's made up of four layers. The deepest layer- the Basale layer- is where skin cells are made, and they gradually migrate to the outermost layer- called the Stratum Corneum. This is the layer that you see- a layer of dead, shedding skin cells that form a protective barrier, much like a brick wall. These cells are surrounded by a natural oil layer called lipids, acting much like the mortar in a brick wall. These surface skin cells- the comeocytes- don't have a blood supply and are held together by proteins. These proteins disintegrate over time and release the dead skin cells- exposing, and replaced by the skin cells underneath in the next two skin layers- the Stratum Granlosum and Stratum Spinosum. The dead skin cells detach irregularly- making your skin look and feel rough and patchy. 

Applied skin creams can act like a buffer- filling and smoothing the gaps left between the intact skin cells. However, what gets absorbed through the skin is not fully established. It's estimated that 60% of what is applied to the skin is absorbed- with some compounds being 100% absorbed through the skin and systemically entering the bloodstream. Absorption rates of chemicals vary tremendously depending on the molecular size of the substance, the concentration applied and the length of exposure. Chemical absorption is then further affected by other variables- such as variances from person to person, age, gender, race and the general condition of an individual's skin.

Our skin layers form a flexible shield against our environment. If the molecular sizing of a substance is too large, it simply won't pass through the Stratum Corneum and systemically enter the body. However, the cosmetic/personal care industries rely on various substances to allow ingredients to permeate the skin effectively- providing an enhanced pathway into the body. Not only are the desirable compounds assisted in this pathway, but also the highly toxic, undesirable chemicals- like the preservatives used (listed in post 02.07.14). 

The shedding of skin cells is a natural process, but it can be disrupted when the natural skin oils are depleted through the use of harsh skin care products, excessive exfoliation, ultraviolet radiation, climate factors, dehydration and even hormonal levels. Disruption to this precious protective layer can make skin more permeable to pathogens, allergens and dehydration, and lead to a variety of skin problems.

ilo ORGANICS soaps are free of any chemicals, colouring agents or fragrances, and are made with selected organic plant oils to nurture and moisturise the skin, whilst gently cleansing it. The molecular sizing of the selected plant oils readily permeate the skin to nourish it with the natural beneficial qualities of the oils. The soaps are made using the cold process method of soap-making to retain the natural, organic oil qualities. ilo ORGANICS soaps are fragrance free, as fragrance ingredients are up to 100% absorbed through the skin. Many are known skin irritants and allergens- causing many skin reactions, but rarely investigated as the cause.

Reduce your daily chemical exposure through personal care products...become conscious of what you apply to your skin- read those ingredient labels. Our bodies were never meant to process petrochemicals. Would you prefer to nurture your skin with a quality organic plant oil, or spray your suit of armour with WD40? It's a simple choice.

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious...

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

...a word used to represent the longest word in English- a nonsense word used by children. Don't you ever wonder who comes up with the names of various chemicals? We can scrutinise product labels, but remain mystified as to what the ingredients might actually be...but conclude that they've got to be okay, or they wouldn't be allowed to be included in a consumable product. Some of the most circumspect chemicals are used as preservatives in personal care products.

The following is a list of preservatives used in products, that we'd personally avoid all contact with until clinical studies are conclusive: 2-bromo-2 nitrophane/Bronopol; Diazolidinyl urea; DMDM hydantoin; Formaldehyde; Imidazolidinyl urea; Parabens- Benzlparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben, Propylparaben; Methylchloroisthiazolinone; Methylisothiazolinone; Methylisothiazoline; Phenocyethanol. Can you even pronounce them? There's a clue!

The following preservatives aren't currently 'in question' over health risks...but use your judgement: Benzalkonium chloride; BHA/Butylated hydroxyanisole; BHT/Butylated hydroxytoluene; Ethylenediamine; Ethylenediamine: Methyeneamine; Methylchloroisothiazolinane; Methyldibromoglutaronitrite; Quaternium-15; Resorcinol; Thimerosal; Triclocaban; Triclosan. Do you bother to jot the ingredients down and research what they are before buying that product?

Apologies for any spelling mistakes made, but therein lies a simple rule to adopt when reading labels- if you can't spell it...if you can't pronounce it...if the ingredient appears as a nonsense word to you...do you really want to risk putting it on your skin?

A popular commercial "beauty cream bar" soap is marketed "Soap is Harsh...**** is Different"- with its 26 mainly synthetic, petrochemical based ingredients- a truly alarming prospect! Our bodies are not meant to process petrochemicals.

ilo ORGANICS soaps contain generally 4 ingredients: a blend of selected saponified organic plant oils and natural glycerine- produced as a by-product of the soap-making process. There are no chemicals, no preservatives, no colouring agents and no fragrance compounds in our soaps...nothing hard to pronounce at all. Use our soaps with confidence!

SOAP MAKING METHODS

FACT FILES ON HANDMADE, PURE ORGANIC SOAP

ilo ORGANICS soaps are handcrafted using the cold process method of soap manufacture. This method ensures that the natural nutrient qualities of the selected organic plant oils used remain intact- as the ingredients are mixed by hand without the use of heat.

We have provided a brief description of the various methods used to make soap for your scrutiny. We believe that informed people make informed decisions.

 

COLD PROCESS METHOD- used by ilo ORGANICS

This method involves mixing a fatty acid (the oil) with an alkali (sodium hydroxide) to form a solid. This process is called saponification. The resultant soap is a fatty acid salt.

During the first 24 hours after combining the ingredients and pouring it into moulds, the molecules reconfigure- causing the mixture to generate natural heat, and progress through a transparent gel stage before becoming an opaque solid. At this point, the sodium hydroxide has been rendered completely inert- creating natural glycerine as a by-product in its place. It is for this reason that sodium hydroxide is not required to be listed as an ingredient, as it has a technical effect in the production process only, and is converted into glycerine as an ingredient.

A simple explanation of this molecular reaction is: fat (the oil) + 3NaOH (sodium hydroxide) = glycerine + 3soap.

It is the naturally achieved glycerine content that makes handcrafted soap smooth and soft in texture, and even more moisturising than from the selected plant oil content. Glycerine is a humectant- attracting moisture to the skin. Technically, all handcrafted cold process soaps can be termed ‘glycerine soaps’. There is no such thing as 100% glycerine soap. On checking commercial soap labels, the glycerine will be listed in the descending order of ingredients as an additive- along with a lengthy list of petrochemical based ingredients. A transparent soap is a heavily processed soap.

It is the natural glycerine content of cold process soap attracting surrounding environmental moisture that can turn the soap to glug. It is important to keep the soap well drained and aired between uses. For this reason, ilo ORGANICS provides a small plastic drainer for use with our soaps.

ilo ORGANICS cut the solidified soap by hand, and allow the soap to harden through evaporation for up to 8 weeks, before packaging it. ilo ORGANICS handcrafted soaps achieve approximately 12% natural glycerine content- to lavish the skin with its supremely moisturising quality. The glycerine is identified as the clear, sticky component of the moistened soap.

Soaps made by the cold process method achieve an opaque smooth, even and creamy texture- that is relatively soft in comparison to commercially produced soaps. Handcrafted soaps made from pure plant oils using the cold process method don’t require preservatives. However, ilo ORGANICS recommends that the soaps be used within 12 months of purchase.

By using this manufacturing method, the soap-maker is required to be registered with NICNAS- the Government Department that soap-making is regulated by in Australia. If the soap-maker is not registered, they are in breach of NICNAS and ACCC requirements for the manufacturing and sale of soap.

 

HOT PROCESS METHOD

This method uses the same combination of a fatty acid with an alkali- as does the cold process method, but the mixture is then heated for several hours to remove most of the moisture content. The resultant mixture is a thick, translucent globular gel that is then forced into the moulds rather than poured. The heating of the soap mixture allows the soap to be used immediately after solidifying- reducing the manufacturing period considerably for the soap-maker. However, the applied heat destroys the beneficial qualities of the oils by destroying the natural oil acids.

Hot Processed soaps can be identified by their opaque and slightly globular texture.

By using this manufacturing method, the soap-maker is required to be registered with NICNAS in Australia.

 

MELT & POUR METHOD

The melt & pour method uses either soap pellets or soap blocks that are purchased from a commercial soap manufacturer. They are therefore generally based on a highly processed, petrochemical formed soap. The purchased soap form is then heated and melted, and various ingredients (natural herbs, goat milk powders, colour, fragrance, essential oils etc) are added to the soap mixture.

Because of this ‘handling’ of the mixture, the resultant soap is technically allowed to be termed ‘handmade’, but it is no better in quality than the basic commercially produced soap purchased.

Melt & Pour soaps can be readily identified by their usually decorative appearance- either being highly coloured, fragranced, and sometimes transparent or having gimmicky forms. This method also allows the soap-maker to not be registered with NICNAS- the Government Department that soap-making is regulated by in Australia- as they are technically not the manufacturer of the soap product.

 

COMMERCIALLY PRODUCED SOAP

Most commercially produced soaps are technically synthetic detergent bars. They are generally manufactured from synthesized petrochemicals- with numerous buffers and preservatives added to achieve various qualities of hardness, lather etc. More chemicals are added to hasten the processing time. Look at the ingredients listed on the packaging- if you can’t pronounce it, we doubt that it is desirable to be used on the skin. Ingredients are required to be listed in descending order by percentage of content. Natural additives usually appear low on the listing- indicating minimal content, and will therefore have very little impact in the formulation.

We have done a comprehensive analysis of the ingredients of most commercial soaps- clearly identifying what all the ingredients represent or their purpose. This analysis is available to peruse to anyone visiting us at Village Life Markets- prepare to be alarmed. The petrochemical cocktail contained in one popularly promoted brand as being a moisturising “beauty cream bar” is incredibly alarming- containing 26 ingredients. This soap currently achieves 22% of commercial soap sales around the world.

Again, ilo ORGANICS believes that informed people make informed decisions. Ilo ORGANICS handcrafted soaps contain 3 or more natural organic ingredients only, to gently cleanse and nurtue the skin. There are no chemicals, colourings or fragrances added.

 

COMMERCIALLY PRODUCED BODY WASHES & LIQUID SOAP

Most commercially produced body washes are made from petrochemicals, similarly as to commercial soap. They could be more aptly termed ‘body detergents’.

Due to successful marketing campaigns, they have achieved escalating sales in recent years- now holding 80% of market sales. Many companies have now ceased production of soap. Naming rights to some historical brands have been sold to companies in India and Asia. Check the labels for country of manufacture- it probably won’t be what you had assumed historically any more.

Body washes are cheaper for manufacturers to produce, and their successful marketing has misguidedly lead the consumer to believe that body washes are a superior and healthier product. Because of their fluid nature, more preservatives are required to sustain the product. They present a frightening chemical cocktail presented in yet another plastic container. The application of heat is required to manufacture liquid soap. This destroys any of the beneficial qualities in the ingredients.

ilo ORGANICS suggests that you carefully read the ingredients list of body washes. One popular brand promotes that it is “soap free- pH balanced- fragrance free- colour free- paraben free”, yet contains 16 ingredients- most of which are petrochemicals. It also uses a suspected mutagenic neurotoxin as one of its preservatives. This chemical is 100% absorbed through the skin, and banned from use in all other cosmetic products. Its use is allowed in body washes because of minimal skin contact time- but do you really want to risk it? 

 

Again, if you can’t pronounce it, do you really want to use it on your skin?